TRAVEL DIARIES - LADAKH 2026 DAY 9

TRAVEL DIARIES – LADAKH 2026

Day 9 | Partapur Nubra Valley→ Siachen Base Camp → Hunder → Partapur

THREE STORIES FROM SIACHEN 🇮🇳

Today I want to tell you three stories.

All three are connected with the same place.

Siachen.

We started from the Partapur Army Officers’ Mess at around 8 AM. The plan was simple. Reach Siachen Base Camp by around 11:30 AM, spend some time there, pay our respects and start our return journey by 2 PM so that we could reach Nubra by evening.

And surprisingly, the plan worked almost perfectly.

We reached Siachen Base Camp around 11 AM.

The moment you reach there, you realise that this is not just another place on a map.

This is where the journey towards some of the most difficult military posts in the world begins.

We paid our respects and tribute to the brave soldiers who lost their lives while guarding Siachen.

And standing there, I thought about the extraordinary story of how India came to control this glacier.

STORY ONE. OPERATION MEGHDOOT

In the late 1970s, Colonel Narendra “Bull” Kumar, a legendary mountaineer and Army officer, explored the Siachen region and understood its enormous strategic importance.

He also noticed increasing Pakistani interest in the area.

Then came an interesting twist.

India learnt that Pakistan had ordered specialised high-altitude clothing and snow equipment from a European supplier.

Indian intelligence eventually worked out what the equipment was meant for.

Pakistan was preparing for Siachen.

The race had begun.

India quickly arranged its own specialised equipment and prepared its troops.

On 13 April 1984, the Indian Army, supported by the Indian Air Force, launched Operation Meghdoot and occupied the strategically important heights of the Saltoro Ridge, including Bilafond La and Sia La.

India reached the crucial heights first.

And that changed the strategic equation of Siachen forever.

But holding Siachen has come at a tremendous cost.

Since 1984, more than a thousand Indian soldiers have lost their lives in the Siachen sector, with extreme cold, avalanches, crevasses and altitude taking a much greater toll than direct combat.

Temperatures can fall below –50°C.

For more than four decades, our soldiers have continued to stand guard there.

Suddenly, the word “sacrifice” feels very different when you are standing at the place from where these men begin their journey towards those heights.

STORY TWO. OP BABA

Then we visited the OP Baba Temple at Siachen Base Camp.

This small temple has a very special place in the hearts of soldiers posted in the Siachen sector.

Before moving towards the forward posts, soldiers come here and pray for their safety and for the safe return of their colleagues.

There is a strong belief among the soldiers that OP Baba protects them from the dangers of Siachen.

According to popular Army folklore, OP Baba sometimes appears in soldiers' dreams and warns them about impending danger.

There is another fascinating tradition.

It is believed that OP Baba normally remains at one of the forward Siachen posts and once every month comes down to the Base Camp on “leave”. He is believed to stay there until the 2nd of the following month, before returning to his post.

And the soldiers have a story about those few days.

According to the legend, during one such absence, a hostile spirit called Langda Salim, believed to be associated with the Pakistani side, tried to take advantage of OP Baba's absence and harm Indian soldiers.

That is why, according to this popular belief, soldiers keep an iron axe with them during this period for protection.

Whether you believe the story literally or see it as Army folklore, one thing is absolutely real.

The faith of the soldiers.

In a place where an avalanche, blizzard or crevasse can become a matter of life and death within minutes, perhaps faith itself becomes another kind of strength.

And I found that incredibly fascinating.

STORY THREE. MINI BABA AMARNATH

Our third story took us a little further towards the northern part of the glacier.

Around 3 km from Siachen Base Camp, there is a cave known as the Mini Baba Amarnath Temple.

During winter, when the temperatures plunge and the cave is covered with ice, a natural ice Shivling is believed to form inside.

We went there, paid our respects and spent some time at the cave.

Standing there, surrounded by the cold and silence of Siachen, it was a very different kind of experience.

From soldiers and war to faith and spirituality, all within a few kilometres.

And then it was time to head back.

We started our return journey and finally reached the sand dunes of Nubra around 6:30 PM.

And, of course, no visit to Nubra is complete without the obligatory photographs with the famous double-humped Bactrian camels.

The girls had a great time.

From the frozen world of Siachen to the warm golden sand dunes of Hunder in the same day.

That's Ladakh for you!

From there we went to the Artisan Village at Hunder, a beautiful little handicraft and artisan market.

A live singing performance was going on when we reached. We stayed there for some time, enjoyed the music and, as expected, the girl gang did some shopping.

Finally, we reached the Partapur Army Officers’ Mess around 8 PM.

It is 9 PM now as I write this.

Looking back at the day, I feel completely satisfied.

Today was not just about travelling.

It was about history, adventure, faith and the people who guard this incredible land.

Three stories.

One day.

And one place that leaves you thinking long after you have left.

Siachen.

We came back with photographs, memories and, perhaps most importantly, a little more respect for those who remain there when the rest of us go home.

Day 9 done. ❤️🇮🇳🏔️

Tomorrow, another chapter of the Ladakh journey.

Stay tuned.

TRAVEL DIARIES – LADAKH 2026 Day 8

TRAVEL DIARIES – LADAKH 2026

Day 8 | Leh → Nubra → Turtuk → Thang → RD Zero Post → Partapur

A DAY AT THE EDGE OF THE MAP

The day started as usual.

Up early. Bags packed. Everyone ready by 8 AM.

Today we had to leave Leh and reach Nubra Valley, our home for the next two days.

But Ladakh had other plans!

Just as we were about to leave the ITBP Officers’ Mess, we were told by the Ladakh Traffic Police that the road towards Khardung La was temporarily closed because of a high-altitude marathon.

It would open only after 9:30 AM.

So, more than an hour of waiting.

Finally, at around 9:30 AM, we started.

The drive was smooth and thankfully there was no major traffic. The Tata Safari did struggle a little while crossing Khardung La and lost some power, but at those altitudes and low oxygen, that's quite normal.

We stopped at Khardung La for some time and then continued towards Nubra.

Our destination was Partapur Army Officers’ Mess, where we were staying for the next two days.

We reached around 1:30 PM, checked in, barely had time to settle down and immediately left again.

Because today was not an ordinary sightseeing day.

We were heading towards Thang and RD Zero Post, right near the India-Pakistan border.

The special permission required for this visit had been arranged well in advance.

Thanks to someone very close to my heart. ❤️

We were accompanied by a few Army friends, and from Partapur onwards, the journey itself became an experience.

Nearly 2½ hours later, we reached RD Zero.

The officers posted there welcomed us and gave us a detailed briefing about the geography, history and strategic importance of the area.

Then came the most exciting part.

They took us to a watchtower equipped with binoculars.

Through them, we could see the forward positions, bunkers and military establishments across the border.

Standing there, looking at those distant posts, you suddenly realise what the Army actually does for us.

We sit comfortably in our homes and complain about the cold.

Our soldiers spend months on those heights.

Once they occupy some of the higher positions, they may have to remain there for four months or more, through conditions that are difficult even to imagine.

And before winter arrives, essential supplies have to be stocked well in advance because once the snow sets in, reaching many of these posts becomes extremely difficult.

Listening to the officers, I felt a deep sense of respect.

No slogans.

No speeches.

Just the quiet reality of what our soldiers do.

PARTAPUR. WHERE HISTORY CHANGED THE MAP.

While travelling through Nubra, Partapur may look like just another small mountain settlement.

But it carries a remarkable chapter of our history.

After the 1947 Partition, the war over Jammu and Kashmir reached Ladakh. In 1948, Chewang Rinchen, barely 17 years old, joined the Nubra Guards and played a crucial role in defending Nubra and Ladakh against the Pakistani advance.

What makes his story even more remarkable is that he returned to this very region 23 years later.

By 1971, he was a Major in the Indian Army and led Indian forces in the Nubra and Chorbat sectors during the war.

The operations resulted in the capture of Chalunka, Turtuk, Tyakshi and Thang.

For his courage in 1948, he had been awarded the Maha Vir Chakra.

In 1971, he was awarded a Bar to the Maha Vir Chakra, making him one of the very few Indian soldiers to receive the MVC twice.

Standing there today, knowing this history, gives the landscape a completely different meaning.

These are not just mountains.

These are places where men actually fought, climbed, survived and sacrificed.

And for the people of these villages, 1971 changed the map around their homes. Families and old connections remained, but the political boundary shifted.

That is something you cannot really understand from a history book.

You understand it differently when you actually stand there.

And today, we were standing there.

We started our return journey around 5:30 PM, stopping briefly at Turtuk on the way.

By the time we finally reached the Army Officers’ Mess at Partapur, it was around 8:30 PM.

A long day.

A hectic day.

But one of those days when tiredness doesn't really matter.

The girls are exhausted.

But excited.

And honestly, so am I.

Tomorrow is another big day.

Siachen Base Camp is waiting.

Let's see what the world's highest battlefield has in store for us.

Day 8 done. ❤️🇮🇳🏔️

Stay tuned for Day 9.

TRAVEL DIARIES – LADAKH 2026 Day 7

TRAVEL DIARIES – LADAKH 2026

Day 7 | Leh to Pangong Lake and back | 300+ km

PANGONG. BEAUTY, MEMORIES AND A LITTLE DISAPPOINTMENT.

Started early today from the ITBP Officers’ Mess.

The target was Pangong Lake.

My friends in Ladakh had actually advised me not to attempt Pangong immediately after reaching Leh. But I had a different thought.

We had already travelled through Gurez, Kargil and Aryan Valley, crossing high passes and spending several days on the road. I felt we were reasonably acclimatised.

So I decided, why wait?

Pangong it was.

It is around 160 km from Leh, and we had to return the same day.

After driving nearly 1,800 km so far, I finally accepted that even I need a break from the steering wheel! 😄

So this time I booked a cab for the journey.

I have been to Pangong several times.

But this was the first Pangong trip for my girl gang, and their excitement was quite infectious. For them, it was a completely new experience.

The journey itself was fairly uneventful, except for crossing Chang La, one of the famous high passes on this route, at around 17,500 feet.

Surprisingly, today Chang La was calm and smooth.

What wasn't smooth was the weather.

It was hot.

Dry.

Almost uncomfortable.

Ladakh seems to be changing, and the weather here certainly feels different from what I remember from my earlier journeys.

We reached Pangong around 12 noon.

And then came a mixed feeling.

I was happy seeing the girls' excitement, but honestly, I was a little disappointed too.

The Pangong I remembered was quiet, raw and almost magical.

Today, the first few kilometres have become heavily commercialised.

Cottages and huts have mushroomed along the lake, many of them poorly maintained. There is visible waste and inadequate disposal in places. And then there are the hundreds of yellow scooters, Royal Enfields, drums, photo setups and, of course, the famous “3 Idiots” chairs.

Everything is there.

Perhaps that's what tourists want.

But somewhere in all this, I felt that something was missing.

The silence.

The solitude.

The old Pangong.

We stayed there for barely half an hour, clicked a few pictures and moved further towards Man village, where the surroundings were much quieter and felt far more pristine.

And that was the Pangong I had come looking for.

We stayed there till around 3 PM.

Sitting beside that enormous blue lake, I had the same thought I have every time I visit Pangong.

“Kaash yeh waqt thoda aur lamba ho jaye.”

But mountains teach you one thing very well.

No matter how beautiful the moment is, you eventually have to leave.

And so did we.

There was one more thing I was particularly looking forward to on this trip.

Marmots.

On my earlier visits, these little fellows were almost part of the Pangong experience. They were friendly, came close to tourists and happily posed for photographs in exchange for a little something to eat.

But today, there wasn't a single one in sight.

And I couldn't help wondering what happened to them.

Tourists have been feeding them biscuits and other processed food for years, even though that isn't their natural diet. Over time, there have been concerns about their health and dependence on human food.

Maybe today they were simply hiding.

Maybe the increased tourist activity has pushed them away.

Whatever the reason, their absence was noticeable.

And somehow, it made me a little sad.

We often love nature so much that we end up changing it.

We feed the animals because we want them to come closer.

We build cottages because tourists need a place to stay.

We create photo spots because everyone wants that perfect picture.

And slowly, the very thing we came to see begins to disappear.

A little philosophical for a travel diary, I know! 😄

But sitting beside Pangong today, I couldn't help thinking about it.

The girl gang, of course, had a completely different opinion.

They were busy posing in their Kareena Kapoor/3 Idiots style and were absolutely thrilled. 😂

They got their pictures.

I got my memories.

And I got a little nostalgic about the Pangong I had known years ago.

That's life, I suppose.

Places change.

People change.

And sometimes even the way we travel changes.

But thankfully, the lake is still there.

Still enormous.

Still beautiful.

Still capable of making you sit quietly for a few minutes and forget everything else.

We started our return journey and covered more than 300 km today.

Tomorrow, another adventure begins.

Nubra Valley is waiting.

And with it, Turtuk and Siachen Base Camp.

Let's see what tomorrow has in store.

Day 7 done. ❤️🏔️

Stay tuned.

TRAVEL DIARIES – LADAKH 2026 Day 6

TRAVEL DIARIES – LADAKH 2026

Day 6 | Kargil to Leh | 270 km

THE ARYAN VALLEY. THE PLACE THAT STAYED IN MY MIND FOR TWO YEARS.

Today I don't want to write much about the 270 km drive from Kargil to Leh. I want to write about a place that had been sitting in my mind for almost two years.

Aryan Valley.

Two years ago, during my Om Parvat and Adi Kailash trip, I was sitting with a close friend who was a Commandant in the SSB. Our usual discussion about travel and adventure was going on, and I mentioned that I had already travelled to Ladakh at least 12 times.

One of the Assistant Commandants asked me, “Sir, have you visited Aryan Valley?”

I said, “No. What is Aryan Valley?”

He replied, “Then you haven't seen Ladakh completely.”

That sentence stayed with me.

He told me about the valley, the Dard/Brokpa community, their distinctive culture and the legends surrounding their ancestry. One popular tradition connects the community with Alexander the Great, with a story that some of his soldiers remained behind in these mountains after his campaign reached the Indus.

There was another rather unusual story too. It was said that some European women, particularly from Germany, travelled here because of the belief that the Brokpa had preserved some kind of “pure Aryan” lineage and that their genes were superior.

There is, however, no strong evidence that such organised “pregnancy tourism” actually existed, and the idea of a “pure Aryan gene” has no sound scientific basis.

But for me, the story did its job.

Aryan Valley was fixed in my mind.

I had planned to visit it during my previous Ladakh trip with friends, but time did not permit.

This time, I was determined.

So from Kargil, instead of taking the usual route towards Leh through Lamayuru, we took the road through the Batalik sector towards Aryan Valley.

The climb over Hamboting La, around 13,000 feet, itself was an adventure. Sharp ascent, sharp turns and a completely different landscape.

And then came the valley.

Darchik → Garkone → Dah → Hanu → Achinathang.

The first thing that struck me was the greenery along the Indus. Fields and apricot orchards appeared between the mountains, and small villages seemed to have found their own little pockets of life in this otherwise harsh terrain.

But what really interested me was the people.

The Dard/Brokpa community has preserved a distinctive culture, language, traditional dress, jewellery and customs. In Dah and Hanu, you can actually feel that this is not just a beautiful destination but a living cultural landscape.

I kept thinking about that conversation from two years ago.

The Assistant Commandant had not exaggerated about one thing. This really is a very different side of Ladakh.

And then there is the Alexander connection.

History has not conclusively established that the Brokpa are descendants of Alexander's soldiers. It remains a fascinating local tradition and legend. But when you are travelling through these remote mountains, listening to these stories from the people who have lived here for generations, you understand why such legends have survived.

That, for me, is the charm of travel.

You don't have to accept every story as history.

Sometimes it is enough to listen.

By the time we completed the Batalik, Darchik, Garkone, Dah, Hanu and Achinathang circuit, I knew that the two-year wait had been worth it.

We still had around 200 km to cover before Leh.

It was a long day, but somehow I wasn't tired.

It is 7 PM now as I write this from Leh.

The girls are absolutely mesmerised by what they saw today.

And I am equally happy.

After so many trips to Ladakh, I thought there couldn't be too many surprises left for me.

Aryan Valley proved me wrong.

Two years ago, someone asked me a simple question:

“Have you visited Aryan Valley?”

Today, I finally got to answer:

“Yes. Now I have.”

And perhaps I finally understand what he meant when he said,

“If you haven't seen Aryan Valley, you haven't seen Ladakh completely.”

Day 6 done. ❤️🏔️

Stay tuned for the next chapter.

Travel Diaries | Day 5 Gurez → Kargil

 Travel Diaries | Day 5

Gurez → Kargil

From Habba Khatoon to the War Memorial.

From songs of Virah to the supreme sacrifice for the motherland.

From lush green meadows to the cold, barren landscape of Ladakh.

Today was a day of not just changing roads and landscapes, but changing moods too.

I had promised yesterday that I would share the story of Habba Khatoon, so let me begin with that.

Habba Khatoon was born as Zoon in 16th century Kashmir. According to popular tradition, she later met Yusuf Shah Chak, the ruler of Kashmir, and became his queen.

Their love story did not have a happy ending.

Yusuf Shah Chak was eventually taken away during the Mughal expansion and never returned to Kashmir. Habba Khatoon’s poetry thereafter became filled with love, separation and virah.

She is remembered today as one of Kashmir’s most celebrated poetesses.

A story of love that turned into poetry and became part of Kashmir's cultural memory.

And then we moved on.

We started early today at around 7 AM and drove back towards Razdan Pass. Had breakfast there and then visited Peer Baba’s shrine at the top of the pass.

From there it was almost continuous driving towards Sonamarg.

We reached Sonamarg around 1:30 PM, had a quick meal and did some essential shopping for the next few days.

And then came Zoji La.

The mighty Zojila.

The climb was slow and demanding, with a long Army convoy making its way towards Ladakh. I must have overtaken close to 200 Army trucks during the climb.

At a few places, even the Safari seemed to say,

"Bas bhai, thoda aaram karne do!" 😄

The altitude and steep climb were clearly making their presence felt.

But somehow we crossed Zojila and started the sharp descent towards Drass.

And then the mood of the entire journey changed.

We stopped at the Kargil War Memorial.

There are some places where you don't feel like talking much.

This was one of them.

We paid our respects to the brave soldiers who made the supreme sacrifice while defending the country.

We visited the museum and saw photographs of the men who fought the Kargil War, details of the battles and, most painfully, their last letters written to their families.

Reading those letters was difficult.

There were tears in our eyes.

And the girls couldn't hold theirs back.

You suddenly realise that behind every name on a memorial was a son, a husband, a father and a family waiting for him to return.

He didn't.

But because of them, we did.

We also visited the souvenir shop and picked up a few things before continuing towards Kargil.

By evening, we reached our stay at the Army Transit Officers' Mess, Kargil.

A comfortable suite with all the basic amenities.

The girl gang is tired.

And honestly, so am I.

But sitting here tonight, my mind is already wandering towards tomorrow.

I am thinking of taking them towards Aryan Valley and Darchik village.

There is a fascinating story hidden in those mountains and in the people who live there.

But for that, you will have to wait until tomorrow. 😉

For now, Day 5 comes to an end.

From Habba Khatoon’s songs of separation to the silence of the Kargil War Memorial.

Quite a day.

Sharing a few pictures from today's journey.

Stay tuned for Day 6. 🏔️🚙

Travel Diaries | Gurez Day 4

Travel Diaries | Gurez Day 4

08 September 2026

What to write and what not to write.

Honestly, I am a little overwhelmed.

There is simply too much to say about Gurez, and still I feel that words will not do justice to this place.

So, let’s skip the unnecessary details and come straight to today’s journey.

Gurez is not just about beautiful mountains. It has a fascinating history and a very distinct culture.

The valley has long been associated with the Dard community, also known as the Dard-Shina people, who speak the Shina language.

What impressed me most was their warmth, simplicity and deep connection with this land. Their relationship with the Indian Army is also something you notice everywhere. The people here have stood firmly with India through some very difficult times.

Coming to today’s journey.

We decided to drive towards Niru and Chakwali, deep inside the Tulail Valley.

And believe me when I say this.

These are among the most beautiful landscapes I have seen in India.

I now understand why Gurez is often called the Crown of Kashmir.

The Kishanganga River stayed with us for most of the journey. Green meadows, wooden houses, mountain streams, hanging bridges and huge mountains on both sides.

Every few kilometres, we wanted to stop and take another picture. And yes, we did take plenty. 😄

There were several security checkpoints along the way where entries had to be made. Fortunately, that part was quite comfortable for me, thanks to friends and the arrangements made for us.

The farther we went, the more remote the valley became.

Finally, we reached Chakwali, one of the last civilian settlements in this part of the valley, very close to the Line of Control.

From here, the mountains across the LoC are clearly visible, and you can even spot security posts on the opposite hills.

Standing there and looking at those mountains is an experience in itself.

The landscape is difficult to describe.

You just keep looking.

And keep clicking.

And still feel you haven't captured enough.

We started our return journey and stopped at Niru for lunch. The hospitality there was once again wonderful.

We reached Dawar around 4 PM.

Then came another beautiful experience.

Habba Khatoon Peak.

Standing above Dawar like a silent guardian, the mountain carries the name and legend of Kashmir’s famous poetess, Habba Khatoon.

There is a beautiful story of love, separation and poetry associated with her. I think that story deserves a separate post, so I will keep it for tomorrow.

By around 7:30 PM, we reached the Shina Cultural Centre.

We watched a beautiful laser show depicting the history, culture and life of the Shina community and Gurez Valley.

It was a lovely way to understand the place beyond its mountains.

And then the day ended exactly the way a mountain day should.

A riverside campfire with friends. 🔥

Sitting beside the river, surrounded by mountains, after a day like this.

What more could one ask for.

Today was one of those days when the camera kept working, but the mind was simply trying to absorb everything.

And the girl gang.

Completely mesmerised. ❤️

I think Gurez has surprised all of us.

Tomorrow, I’ll share a little more about Habba Khatoon, her story and the legend behind the mountain and spring that carry her name.

For today, just a few pictures.

Because sometimes pictures can say what words cannot.

Gurez. ❤️🏔️

#TravelDiaries #GurezValley #TulailValley #Chakwali #Dawar #KashmirDiaries #Shina #DardCommunity #HabbaKhatoon #Kishanganga #FamilyRoadTrip #MountainDiaries

Travel Diaries | Ladakh Day 3

 Travel Diaries | Ladakh Day 3

07 September 2026

Srinagar → Gurez Valley | Approx 140 km

A pleasant morning in Srinagar.

Started the day with a 4 km walk inside the campus and then got ready for the next leg of the journey.

We decided to leave around 9 AM.

Today's destination was Gurez Valley.

The distance is not much, around 140 km, but the drive takes nearly 6 hours.

Before leaving, I spoke to my close friend who is the Commanding Officer in Gurez Valley these days.

He promised to take care of everything and he really did, From smooth security checks on the way to arranging our lunch at Razdan Pass, everything was taken care of.

The journey started with the usual Srinagar traffic and jam packed roads, But slowly the city disappeared and the real Kashmir started. We passed through Bandipora and Wular Lake and then started climbing towards Tragbal and Razdan.

The scenery kept getting better,

Dense old deodar trees, green mountains and finally the tree line disappeared as we reached Razdan Pass at around 12,000 feet.

The pass is a beautiful open meadow now,

Had lunch there and then started our descent towards Gurez.

After some time, the Kishanganga River appeared alongside us,

And across the river was the territory under Pakistan's administration.

At some places, it felt incredibly close,

Another security check on the way and we were through without any hassle.

Finally reached Dawar, Gurez Valley

And what a beautiful place.

A small town surrounded by huge mountains and the Kishanganga flowing nearby.

We were welcomed with hot chai and pakodi, After a long drive, that was more than enough to make everyone happy 😄

From there an escort vehicle accompanied us to today's stay at the Brigade Army Officers' Mess, Dawar

And another pleasant surprise, A beautiful, comfortable and very well maintained officers' mess in such a remote location.

It is around 5:45 PM as I am writing this.

The day is still not over

A friend has arranged a riverside campfire for us this evening,

Before that, we are planning to visit the Shina Cultural Centre for a laser show about the history and culture of Gurez and the Neelum Valley,

I'll keep that part for tomorrow.

For now, the highlight of the day is watching the girl gang completely mesmerised by Gurez.

They had visited Srinagar last year but this is their first time in Gurez and the mountains here have clearly left them speechless

And honestly, that makes the trip even more special for me.

I have travelled to these mountains many times

But seeing the same mountains through their eyes feels different

Day 3 done ❤️

A few pictures from today's journey

Tomorrow, more of Gurez

Stay tuned 😄