Travel Diaries | Day 5 Gurez → Kargil

 Travel Diaries | Day 5

Gurez → Kargil

From Habba Khatoon to the War Memorial.

From songs of Virah to the supreme sacrifice for the motherland.

From lush green meadows to the cold, barren landscape of Ladakh.

Today was a day of not just changing roads and landscapes, but changing moods too.

I had promised yesterday that I would share the story of Habba Khatoon, so let me begin with that.

Habba Khatoon was born as Zoon in 16th century Kashmir. According to popular tradition, she later met Yusuf Shah Chak, the ruler of Kashmir, and became his queen.

Their love story did not have a happy ending.

Yusuf Shah Chak was eventually taken away during the Mughal expansion and never returned to Kashmir. Habba Khatoon’s poetry thereafter became filled with love, separation and virah.

She is remembered today as one of Kashmir’s most celebrated poetesses.

A story of love that turned into poetry and became part of Kashmir's cultural memory.

And then we moved on.

We started early today at around 7 AM and drove back towards Razdan Pass. Had breakfast there and then visited Peer Baba’s shrine at the top of the pass.

From there it was almost continuous driving towards Sonamarg.

We reached Sonamarg around 1:30 PM, had a quick meal and did some essential shopping for the next few days.

And then came Zoji La.

The mighty Zojila.

The climb was slow and demanding, with a long Army convoy making its way towards Ladakh. I must have overtaken close to 200 Army trucks during the climb.

At a few places, even the Safari seemed to say,

"Bas bhai, thoda aaram karne do!" 😄

The altitude and steep climb were clearly making their presence felt.

But somehow we crossed Zojila and started the sharp descent towards Drass.

And then the mood of the entire journey changed.

We stopped at the Kargil War Memorial.

There are some places where you don't feel like talking much.

This was one of them.

We paid our respects to the brave soldiers who made the supreme sacrifice while defending the country.

We visited the museum and saw photographs of the men who fought the Kargil War, details of the battles and, most painfully, their last letters written to their families.

Reading those letters was difficult.

There were tears in our eyes.

And the girls couldn't hold theirs back.

You suddenly realise that behind every name on a memorial was a son, a husband, a father and a family waiting for him to return.

He didn't.

But because of them, we did.

We also visited the souvenir shop and picked up a few things before continuing towards Kargil.

By evening, we reached our stay at the Army Transit Officers' Mess, Kargil.

A comfortable suite with all the basic amenities.

The girl gang is tired.

And honestly, so am I.

But sitting here tonight, my mind is already wandering towards tomorrow.

I am thinking of taking them towards Aryan Valley and Darchik village.

There is a fascinating story hidden in those mountains and in the people who live there.

But for that, you will have to wait until tomorrow. 😉

For now, Day 5 comes to an end.

From Habba Khatoon’s songs of separation to the silence of the Kargil War Memorial.

Quite a day.

Sharing a few pictures from today's journey.

Stay tuned for Day 6. 🏔️🚙

Travel Diaries | Gurez Day 4

Travel Diaries | Gurez Day 4

08 September 2026

What to write and what not to write.

Honestly, I am a little overwhelmed.

There is simply too much to say about Gurez, and still I feel that words will not do justice to this place.

So, let’s skip the unnecessary details and come straight to today’s journey.

Gurez is not just about beautiful mountains. It has a fascinating history and a very distinct culture.

The valley has long been associated with the Dard community, also known as the Dard-Shina people, who speak the Shina language.

What impressed me most was their warmth, simplicity and deep connection with this land. Their relationship with the Indian Army is also something you notice everywhere. The people here have stood firmly with India through some very difficult times.

Coming to today’s journey.

We decided to drive towards Niru and Chakwali, deep inside the Tulail Valley.

And believe me when I say this.

These are among the most beautiful landscapes I have seen in India.

I now understand why Gurez is often called the Crown of Kashmir.

The Kishanganga River stayed with us for most of the journey. Green meadows, wooden houses, mountain streams, hanging bridges and huge mountains on both sides.

Every few kilometres, we wanted to stop and take another picture. And yes, we did take plenty. 😄

There were several security checkpoints along the way where entries had to be made. Fortunately, that part was quite comfortable for me, thanks to friends and the arrangements made for us.

The farther we went, the more remote the valley became.

Finally, we reached Chakwali, one of the last civilian settlements in this part of the valley, very close to the Line of Control.

From here, the mountains across the LoC are clearly visible, and you can even spot security posts on the opposite hills.

Standing there and looking at those mountains is an experience in itself.

The landscape is difficult to describe.

You just keep looking.

And keep clicking.

And still feel you haven't captured enough.

We started our return journey and stopped at Niru for lunch. The hospitality there was once again wonderful.

We reached Dawar around 4 PM.

Then came another beautiful experience.

Habba Khatoon Peak.

Standing above Dawar like a silent guardian, the mountain carries the name and legend of Kashmir’s famous poetess, Habba Khatoon.

There is a beautiful story of love, separation and poetry associated with her. I think that story deserves a separate post, so I will keep it for tomorrow.

By around 7:30 PM, we reached the Shina Cultural Centre.

We watched a beautiful laser show depicting the history, culture and life of the Shina community and Gurez Valley.

It was a lovely way to understand the place beyond its mountains.

And then the day ended exactly the way a mountain day should.

A riverside campfire with friends. 🔥

Sitting beside the river, surrounded by mountains, after a day like this.

What more could one ask for.

Today was one of those days when the camera kept working, but the mind was simply trying to absorb everything.

And the girl gang.

Completely mesmerised. ❤️

I think Gurez has surprised all of us.

Tomorrow, I’ll share a little more about Habba Khatoon, her story and the legend behind the mountain and spring that carry her name.

For today, just a few pictures.

Because sometimes pictures can say what words cannot.

Gurez. ❤️🏔️

#TravelDiaries #GurezValley #TulailValley #Chakwali #Dawar #KashmirDiaries #Shina #DardCommunity #HabbaKhatoon #Kishanganga #FamilyRoadTrip #MountainDiaries

Travel Diaries | Ladakh Day 3

 Travel Diaries | Ladakh Day 3

07 September 2026

Srinagar → Gurez Valley | Approx 140 km

A pleasant morning in Srinagar.

Started the day with a 4 km walk inside the campus and then got ready for the next leg of the journey.

We decided to leave around 9 AM.

Today's destination was Gurez Valley.

The distance is not much, around 140 km, but the drive takes nearly 6 hours.

Before leaving, I spoke to my close friend who is the Commanding Officer in Gurez Valley these days.

He promised to take care of everything and he really did, From smooth security checks on the way to arranging our lunch at Razdan Pass, everything was taken care of.

The journey started with the usual Srinagar traffic and jam packed roads, But slowly the city disappeared and the real Kashmir started. We passed through Bandipora and Wular Lake and then started climbing towards Tragbal and Razdan.

The scenery kept getting better,

Dense old deodar trees, green mountains and finally the tree line disappeared as we reached Razdan Pass at around 12,000 feet.

The pass is a beautiful open meadow now,

Had lunch there and then started our descent towards Gurez.

After some time, the Kishanganga River appeared alongside us,

And across the river was the territory under Pakistan's administration.

At some places, it felt incredibly close,

Another security check on the way and we were through without any hassle.

Finally reached Dawar, Gurez Valley

And what a beautiful place.

A small town surrounded by huge mountains and the Kishanganga flowing nearby.

We were welcomed with hot chai and pakodi, After a long drive, that was more than enough to make everyone happy 😄

From there an escort vehicle accompanied us to today's stay at the Brigade Army Officers' Mess, Dawar

And another pleasant surprise, A beautiful, comfortable and very well maintained officers' mess in such a remote location.

It is around 5:45 PM as I am writing this.

The day is still not over

A friend has arranged a riverside campfire for us this evening,

Before that, we are planning to visit the Shina Cultural Centre for a laser show about the history and culture of Gurez and the Neelum Valley,

I'll keep that part for tomorrow.

For now, the highlight of the day is watching the girl gang completely mesmerised by Gurez.

They had visited Srinagar last year but this is their first time in Gurez and the mountains here have clearly left them speechless

And honestly, that makes the trip even more special for me.

I have travelled to these mountains many times

But seeing the same mountains through their eyes feels different

Day 3 done ❤️

A few pictures from today's journey

Tomorrow, more of Gurez

Stay tuned 😄

Travel Diaries | Ladakh Day 2

 Travel Diaries | Ladakh Day 2 🚙

06/09/2026

Jalandhar to Srinagar | 450 km

Started around 7 AM from Jalandhar

Today's target was Srinagar and we had around 450 km to cover

With the family and more importantly the girl gang and their luggage, starting on time itself felt like an achievement 😄

After crossing Pathankot, we stopped at Haldiram for breakfast

Soon after that, the weather changed and we got some heavy rain

But the drive was good

The roads have changed tremendously over the years

So many tunnels now and some really good stretches of road

The journey from Pathankot to Srinagar has become much quicker and of course much more comfortable

While driving, I kept remembering my earlier trips on this route

The old road had a different kind of adventure

There were times when we would spend hours behind a truck and sometimes more interestingly behind a whole herd of sheep 😂

At that time it was irritating

Today I actually miss it a little

The new roads are definitely better but somewhere along the way they have taken away a bit of that old school mountain road adventure

The landscape around Banihal was beautiful today

The rains have made everything so green

Mountains, clouds, waterfalls and mist

The whole drive was looking fantastic

My wife and daughters had visited Srinagar last year so Kashmir itself isn't completely new to them

But Gurez and Ladakh are still unexplored territory for them

And that's what makes this trip special for me

I have been to Ladakh many times but this time I get to experience it with them.

Before reaching Srinagar I also managed to meet three friends

Mr Shyam Chaudhary

Commandant, CRPF posted at Pulwama

Mr Vivek Aggarwal, IAS

AGMUT posted at Srinagar

Mr KPS Malhotra, IPS

AGMUT posted at Srinagar

Always good to meet friends while travelling.

Finally reached Srinagar in the evening

Tonight's stay is at Frontier Officers' Mess, BSF, near Srinagar Airport

And I must say what a place

A beautiful officers' mess, very comfortable and extremely well maintained

After a 450 km drive everyone was happy to finally relax 😊

Tomorrow is going to be more interesting

We leave Srinagar and head towards Gurez Valley

Gurez is one of the places I have been wanting to take the family to

For them this will be a completely new experience

And for me perhaps the fun will be in watching their reactions as the road gets narrower, the mountains get higher and the landscape keeps changing

Let's see what Day 3 brings

Day 2 done ✅

Srinagar to Gurez tomorrow 🏔️🚙

Stay tuned, network permitting 😄

#TravelDiaries #LadakhTrip #Ladakh2026 #FamilyRoadTrip #KashmirDiaries #Srinagar #GurezValley #RoadTrip #MountainsCalling #TravelWithFamily

TRAVEL DIARIES — LADAKH | DAY 1

 🏔️ TRAVEL DIARIES — LADAKH | DAY 1 🚗

05/09/2026

Delhi ➡️ Jalandhar

Maybe this is my 13th or 14th trip to Ladakh… honestly, I have lost count. 😄

But this one is special.

Because for the first time, my wife and my two daughters, Riya & Diya, are joining me.

A promise made to them long back… “One day, we’ll do Ladakh together.” ❤️

And as always, an adventure road trip doesn’t really start when you turn the car key. It starts weeks before that!

Long leave sanctioning, work adjustments, convincing parents 😄, arranging someone to look after them while we are away, planning safe stays, packing, repacking… and yes, somehow managing IMA Dwarka work in between all this! 😅

There were quite a few hiccups before the trip, but thankfully, one by one, everything fell into place.

And then finally… WE STARTED! ❤️

Travelling with the girl gang has its own challenges though.

The amount of luggage!! 😂

The car has already stopped looking like a car and started looking like a moving house… or maybe a dustbin! 🤣

“Ye bhi le chalo… kya pata zarurat pad jaaye.”

And of course, the final decision is always: “Sab kuch ghar se hi le jana hai!” 😄

But honestly, seeing the three of them excited and happy makes all the preparation worth it.

Today we reached Jalandhar and checked into the BSF Officers’ Mess — a beautiful and peaceful officers’ institute.

Day 1 was easy.

The real adventure begins from here. 🏔️❤️

Sharing a few pictures from the first day.

Stay tuned…

I’ll try to share our journey every day, network permitting! 📸🚙

#TravelDiaries #LadakhDiaries #Ladakh2026 #RoadTrip #FamilyRoadTrip #DelhiToLadakh #AdventureWithFamily #GirlGang #IncredibleIndia #MountainsCalling #RoadTripDiaries

लाउंज

दिल्ली एयरपोर्ट की सुबह मुझे हमेशा किसी बड़े रेलवे स्टेशन की याद दिलाती है। फर्क बस इतना है कि यहाँ कुलियों की जगह ट्रॉलियाँ दौड़ती हैं और चायवालों की आवाज़ों की जगह लगातार होती घोषणाएँ सुनाई देती हैं। बाकी भीड़, भागदौड़ और चेहरों का समुद्र लगभग वैसा ही लगता है।

उस सुबह राकेश सिंह बेंगलुरु जाने वाली फ्लाइट का इंतज़ार कर रहा था। सरकारी नौकरी करते करते उसे बीस साल हो चुके थे। इलाहाबाद से दिल्ली आए चार साल हो गए थे, लेकिन मन का एक हिस्सा अब भी रेलवे प्लेटफ़ॉर्म पर ही अटका रहता था। ट्रेन में सफ़र करते समय उसे हमेशा लगता था कि यात्रा शुरू हो गई है। हवाई जहाज़ में तो सब कुछ इतना जल्दी होता है कि आदमी समझ ही नहीं पाता कि निकला कब और पहुँच गया कब।

तीन महीने पहले उसकी पत्नी ने ज़िद करके उसके लिए एक क्रेडिट कार्ड बनवाया था।

"कम से कम एयरपोर्ट पर चाय नाश्ता तो आराम से कर लिया करो," उसने कार्ड हाथ में देते हुए कहा था।

राकेश ने उस समय हँसकर बात टाल दी थी, लेकिन सच तो यह था कि उसे भी थोड़ा अच्छा लगा था। ज़िंदगी में पहली बार उसे लगा था कि शायद वह भी उन लोगों की दुनिया के थोड़ा करीब पहुँच रहा है, जिन्हें देखकर उसका बेटा अक्सर कहता था,

"पापा, आप भी कभी बिज़नेस क्लास में जाया करो।"

फ्लाइट में अभी काफी समय था, वह जल्दी एयरपोर्ट पहुँच गया था।

सिक्योरिटी चेक के बाद जब वह लाउंज की लाइन में लगा, तो आसपास के लोगों को देखने लगा। आगे खड़ा एक लड़का वीडियो कॉल पर किसी को पूरा लाउंज दिखा रहा था। पीछे खड़े सज्जन किसी को कार्ड के फायदे समझा रहे थे।

"नहीं भाई, यह वाला कार्ड अब लिमिटेड एंट्री देता है। दूसरा लेना पड़ेगा।"

राकेश मुस्कुरा दिया। उसे अचानक याद आया कि कुछ साल पहले तक उसे यह भी नहीं पता था कि एयरपोर्ट लाउंज जैसी कोई चीज़ होती है।

करीब पच्चीस मिनट बाद उसकी एंट्री हुई।

अंदर पहुँचकर उसे हल्की सी हैरानी हुई। उसके मन में जो तस्वीर थी, यह जगह उससे काफी अलग थी। लगभग सारी सीटें भरी हुई थीं। कहीं प्लेटों की आवाज़ आ रही थी, कहीं बच्चे रो रहे थे, कहीं लोग मोबाइल पर मीटिंग कर रहे थे।

उसने दो इडली, एक समोसा और थोड़े से फल प्लेट में रख लिए। कॉफ़ी लेने गया तो वहाँ भी लाइन लगी थी।

कॉफ़ी लेकर वह आखिरकार खिड़की के पास एक सीट पर बैठ गया।

बाहर सामान्य वेटिंग एरिया दिखाई दे रहा था। एक बुज़ुर्ग आराम से अख़बार पढ़ रहे थे। पास में एक महिला अपने बच्चे को गोद में सुलाने की कोशिश कर रही थी। कुछ लोग बस चुपचाप बैठे थे।

उन्हें देखकर न जाने क्यों राकेश को लगा कि वे लोग उससे ज़्यादा सहज हैं।

तभी पास वाली मेज़ से बातचीत की आवाज़ आई।

"यार, मेरा कार्ड अब लाउंज एक्सेस नहीं दे रहा।"

"तो दूसरा ले ले।"

"उसकी फीस?"

"लगभग बारह हज़ार साल की।"

राकेश ने अनायास अपनी कॉफ़ी का कप नीचे रख दिया।

उसकी नज़र सामने लगे एक और काँच के दरवाज़े पर गई।

प्रीमियम मेंबर्स ओनली।

उस दरवाज़े के पास भी कुछ लोग खड़े थे। एक व्यक्ति ने अपना कार्ड दिखाया, लेकिन स्टाफ़ ने विनम्रता से मना कर दिया।

राकेश के चेहरे पर हल्की मुस्कान आ गई।

उसे अपना बचपन याद आ गया।

कानपुर वाले पुराने घर में एक कमरा ऐसा था जहाँ बच्चों का जाना लगभग मना था। दादी उसे तहख़ाना कहती थीं। वहाँ अनाज के बोरे, अचार के मर्तबान और न जाने क्या क्या रखा रहता था।

राकेश और उसके दोस्त अक्सर सोचते थे कि वहाँ ज़रूर कोई ख़ज़ाना छिपा होगा। जिस चीज़ तक पहुँच न हो, वह हमेशा ज़्यादा कीमती लगती थी।

सामने काँच के उस दरवाज़े को देखते हुए उसे अचानक लगा कि इतने सालों में बहुत कुछ बदल गया है, पर शायद इंसान नहीं बदला।

बचपन में तहख़ाना था।

फिर कॉलेज में कुछ ऐसे लोग थे जिनके जैसा बनना था।

नौकरी में कुछ ऐसे पद थे जहाँ पहुँचना था।

अब एयरपोर्ट पर लाउंज है। लाउंज के भीतर एक और लाउंज है।

शायद ज़िंदगी का बड़ा हिस्सा अगले दरवाज़े को देखते हुए ही निकल जाता है।

उसी समय बोर्डिंग की घोषणा हुई।

राकेश ने बैग उठाया और बाहर निकलने लगा। जाते जाते उसने एक बार फिर उस प्रीमियम दरवाज़े की तरफ़ देखा।

फिर खुद ही मुस्कुरा दिया।

उसे मालूम था कि अगली बार मौका मिला तो वह उस दरवाज़े के भीतर जाने की कोशिश ज़रूर करेगा।

और उसे यह भी मालूम था कि उसके आगे शायद एक और दरवाज़ा होगा।

घिसी हुई सैंडलें

वो करीब पच्चीस साल की होगी।

हर महीने अपनी माँ को दिखाने मेरे क्लीनिक पर आती थी। 

माँ को डायबिटीज़ थी, 

किडनी भी ठीक से काम नहीं करती थी। हर बार वही पुरानी फाइल, वही दवाइयाँ, वही एकमात्र सवाल, 

"डॉक्टर साहब माँ ठीक तो हो जाएगी न"?

मैंने कई बार गौर किया था कि माँ से ज़्यादा बातें वही करती थी। दवाइयों का हिसाब, शुगर की रीडिंग, खाने-पीने की जानकारी, ये सब उसे याद रहता था।

एक दिन मैंने ऐसे ही पूछ लिया,

"बेटा तुम क्या करती हो?"

वो हल्के से मुस्कुराई और बोली,

"कुछ नहीं डॉक्टर साहब।"

मुझे उसका जवाब अधूरा लगा।

मैंने फिर पूछा,

"मतलब पढ़ाई, नौकरी, कुछ तो?"

वो कुछ सेकंड चुप रही।

"पहले बी कॉम कर रही थी। दूसरे साल में छोड़ दी।"

"क्यों?"

उसने कुर्सी पर बैठी अपनी माँ की तरफ देखा।

"पापा को स्ट्रोक पड़ा था। छह महीने के बाद चल बसे। छोटा भाई तब आठवीं क्लास में था। माँ की तबीयत धीरे धीरे खराब रहने लगी। घर में कमाने वाला कोई नहीं था।"

मैंने सोचा आगे की कहानी आम होगी।

लेकिन वो आगे बोली,

"सुबह चार बजे उठकर दूध निकालकर उसको बेचने जाती थी। 

फिर घर पर आकर माँ को संभालती। दोपहर में एक दुकान पर हिसाब किताब का काम करती थी। 

रात को थोड़ा वक्त बच्चों को ट्यूशन पढ़ाती थी।"

वो यह सब ऐसे बता रही थी जैसे किसी और की बात हो।

"थक नहीं जाती थी?"

मैंने पूछा।

वो हँस पड़ी।

"शुरू में बहुत थकती थी। फिर आदत हो गई।"

तभी उसकी माँ ने बीच में कहा,

"डॉक्टर साहब, इसने अपने लिए कभी कुछ नहीं खरीदा।"

लड़की ने तुरंत बात काट दी,

"अरे माँ, रहने दो।"

पर माँ नहीं मानी।

"भाई को इंजीनियर बना दिया। पिछले महीने उसकी नौकरी लग गई है उसकी। पहली तनख्वाह से मेरे लिए साड़ी खरीद कर लाया था।"

मैंने लड़की की तरफ देखा।

वो खिड़की के बाहर देख रही थी।

"और तुम्हारे लिए क्या लाया?"

मेरे मुँह से निकल गया।

वो मुस्कुराई।

"मेरे लिए?"

वो कुछ पल रुकी।

"मेरे लिए उसने कहा था, 

"दीदी, अब तुम थोड़ा आराम कर लो।"

न जाने क्यों उस एक वाक्य ने मुझे चुप कर दिया।

रोज़ अस्पताल में, अलग अलग, छोटे-बड़े लोग मिलते हैं। बड़े पद, बड़ी गाड़ियाँ, बड़े परिचय वाले भी।

लेकिन उस दिन मुझे लगा कि असली ऊँचाई पर शायद वहीं बैठी थी, 

साधारण सूट पहने, घिसे हुए सैंडलों और बैग के साथ, अपनी माँ का हाथ पकड़े हुए।

फाइल बंद करते हुए मैंने अगली अपॉइंटमेंट लिख दी।

वो धीमे से उठते हुए धन्यवाद कहकर चली गई।

"शायद उसे कभी पता भी नहीं चलेगा कि डॉक्टरों की याददाश्त में मरीज नहीं, कभी-कभी उनके साथ आए लोग भी हमेशा के लिए रह जाते हैं"।