TRAVEL DIARIES – LADAKH 2026
Day 11 | Leh to Jispa via Padum and Shinku La
A JOURNEY I HAD NOT PLANNED
Yesterday I wrote about Dr Ritesh suggesting that instead of taking the usual route back from Leh, I should try the Nimmu–Padum–Shinku La route towards Manali.
I thought about it.
And finally said, why not?
So this morning at around 8 AM, we left Leh.
And believe me, what started as an unplanned change in our return journey turned out to be one of the most beautiful drives of the entire trip.
We crossed the Indus–Zanskar confluence at Nimmu and then started following the Zanskar River.
For quite some time, the road ran right along the river.
On both sides were those huge, completely barren mountains that make you feel very small.
After Chilling, we came across a beautiful waterfall near Neyraks, known locally as Tsomo Spring.
It was not a huge waterfall.
In fact, it was quite small.
But, as I have discovered during this trip, in the Himalayas even a small stream usually comes with a big story.
THE STORY OF TSOMO SPRING
According to local legend, a spiritual practitioner from Neyraks once travelled to Tibet seeking the blessings of a highly revered Lama.
The Lama gave him a sealed metal box and told him not to open it until he reached his village.
He was also told that the box would become heavier as he came closer to home.
And apparently, it did.
But curiosity won.
He opened the box.
According to the story, two small fish, one golden and one turquoise, came out and disappeared into the rocks.
Soon water started flowing from the mountain.
And that is how, according to the legend, the spring was born.
There are several more interesting twists to the story, including one of the channels being blocked later.
Standing there, looking at water coming out of a completely barren mountain, I couldn't help smiling.
Maybe this is what makes travelling interesting.
You start with a road.
You end up collecting stories.
We continued towards Padum.
And gradually the landscape started changing.
The completely rocky terrain began giving way to patches of green and beautiful meadows.
Padum was quite busy because of the Zanskar Festival, and most of the hotels and homestays were packed.
We didn't spend much time there.
We had another target.
Shinku La.
And somewhere on the way, we got our biggest surprise of the day.
GONBO RANGJON
Suddenly, in the middle of the vast valley, we saw this huge mountain standing completely alone.
Gonbo Rangjon.
I had seen photographs of it before, but photographs really don't prepare you for the actual sight.
It stands there like a giant watching over the valley.
For the people of Zanskar, Gonbo Rangjon is a sacred mountain associated with Gonbo, or Mahakala, the protector deity of Tibetan Buddhism.
We stopped there.
And then, naturally, the cameras came out.
One photograph.
Then another.
Then another.
At some point I stopped counting.
But honestly, I didn't mind.
Some places deserve too many photographs.
After spending some time around Gonbo Rangjon, we continued towards Shinku La.
The climb was beautiful and, as expected, the higher we went, the more dramatic the landscape became.
After crossing the pass, we started descending towards the Lahaul side.
And finally, around 5 PM, we reached Jispa.
That's when I realised something.
Today's journey had not been planned at all.
Yesterday we were in Leh discussing the return to Delhi.
Today we had crossed Zanskar, Padum, Gonbo Rangjon and Shinku La and were sitting in Jispa.
This is why I love road trips.
You may have a plan.
But the road usually has its own plan.
It is around 8 PM now.
We are finally relaxing at the hotel.
The girls are tired.
I am tired too.
But there is a strange satisfaction after a day like this.
Tomorrow we will stay in Manali.
And the day after tomorrow, we start the final drive towards Delhi.
The Ladakh journey is almost over.
But I think the last few days have given us some of the best memories of the entire trip.
Day 11 done. ❤️
Stay tuned for Day 12.
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